Learn to Knit With Scales

So you want to make something with scales too?
Well you're in the right place!
Here you'll find free learning tutorials and links to patterns that use the scale stitches to create your own scaly items. Many of the patterns include information to make them in any colour arrangement you want, and there are several simple patterns suitable for learning.

Each of these scale knitting patterns available for £2.50

                                      

More information and patterns available in the store

Free Tutorials

A necklace type ornament being knitted on 5mm needles with DK yarn and TheRingLord.com

mirror finish small aluminum scales, only using the add scale on knit stitch method

Let's start the tutorial of how to get your scales on!

Any feedback and extra useful information I should include is really appreciated, comment somewhere here or mention it to me on CraftyMutt's facebook page.

Adding Scales
Click tutorial photos for a closer look

Knit Stitch - Adding a scale on the further side of the fabric

1. Insert needle into next stitch as you would to knit it

2. Place a scale over the end of the right hand needle with the out side of the scale facing away from you

3. Loop the yarn around the end of the right hand needle as you would when knitting but with the scale between the new loop and the old loop

4. Pull the new loop through both the scale hole and the old loop, similar to knitting a normal stitch

Done! You should now have a scale attached to the loop on the right hand needle on the side of the fabric furthest from you.

Make sure the scale stays the right way round and pointing downwards as you make the next stitch to secure the scale properly in place

Basic tutorial video

Purl Stitch - Adding a scale on the side of the fabric facing you

1. Insert needle into next stitch as you would to purl it

2. Place a scale over the end of the right hand needle with the out side of the scale facing towards you

3. Loop the yarn around the end of the right hand needle as you would when purling but with the scale between the new loop and the old loop

4. Pull the new loop through both the scale hole and the old loop, similar to purling a normal stitch

Done! You should now have a scale attached to the loop on the right hand needle on the side of the fabric closest to you.

Make sure the scale stays the right way round and pointing downwards as you make the next stitch to secure the scale properly in place

Knitting With These Stitches

To practise using both these stitches, the two following practise swatches are suggested. Hopefully from these you'll be able to adjust the method for how you want to use the scales on your own designs, or if you prefer to work from patterns all the ones written that use the stitches in these tutorials are available in the pattern store.

For these swatches, the stitches will be noted as "knit scale" and "purl scale", and you will also use standard knit stitches and purl stitches with each.

For knitting with small scales;

- 3.5-4.5mm needles
- Worsted or Aran weight yarn is recommended, as a thicker yarn works best to hold the scales firmly in place
- Gauge 16st and 30r to 4" in garter stitch, knit every stitch

(details when working with large scales to be determined and added here when known)

Knit Scale Stitch Patch
Cast on 16 stitches

Knit 2 rows

1. Knit 2, **knit scale, knit 1** [6 times], knit 2

2. Knit across

3. Knit 2, **knit 1, knit scale** [6 times], knit 2

4. Knit across

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until you have 32 rows [8 repeats total]

Cast off loosely

Purl Scale Stitch Patch

Cast on 16 stitches
Purl 2 rows

1. Purl 2, **purl scale, purl 1** [6 times], purl 2

2. Purl across

3. Purl 2, **purl 1, purl scale** [6 times], purl 2

4. Purl across

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until you have 32 rows [8 repeats total]

Cast off loosely

Notes When Knitting With Scales

Some things are worth noting when working with scales, or choosing how to add scales to your project. There is a lot of information when it comes to how best to use scales, and in what situations, so this is quite big, but all of it's pretty important if you're going to be knitting with scales!

Basic Scale Knitting Tips: what you need to know

• Recently plastic scales have become available (only in black), which are smoother and lighter and easier to knit with especially while you are learning
• In any single piece of knitting, chances are you will only need EITHER the knit or purl version stitch
• Scaled knitting can get very heavy if done on a large scale, and is not really recommended for any item using more than 2000 scales (for example a shirt) unless you have additional support, as the material will pull under the weight
• Suggestions of items which are suitable to make using this technique include; gloves, pouches, hats, chokers, necklaces, wristbands, and miniature coats of armour for toys
• Patterns for many of these suggested items are in the works, if you prefer to follow instructions to know exactly what they are getting
• There are lots of scaled animals that you could knit with added awesomeness by adding scales, suggestions include dragon, snake, pangolin, lizard, dinosaur, fish, and a whole host of mythical beasts!
• Creature patterns are harder to work with in scales, as they involve more increase and decrease stitches for shaping, and may have smaller sections which are too small for scales; some animal patterns are in the works
• If you knit scales onto EVERY row, rather than every other row as described, you will end up with double-sided scale material (if you can think of anything you'd need it for!)
• Keep work tight between needles if working with in the round with DPNs, and scales will mesh almost seamlessly between rows
• Many knitting projects recommend blocking work; DO NOT BLOCK SCALED KNITTING
• It's just plain not a good idea to avoid wet and heat with all the scales. Water is particularly bad for metal scales, and heat is bad for the plastic option.

Advanced Scale Knitting: Choosing Where and How to Put Scales in a Pattern

• Do you want simplicity of the rest of pattern, or simplicity of adding scales?
• The knit scale stitch was designed to allow complete beginners to have a go at the stitch, as it means items can be made with only one kind of stitch
• The purl scale stitch was designed so that the scale side of the fabric is facing you while you knit, which allows you to see where you  are adding the scale better and notice mistakes as you make them rather than on the next row
• It's best not to have a scale added on the first or last stitch of a row if you are knitting a piece on straight needles
• Scales should be added with at least one non-scale stitch between them
• If your gauge is large (you are using very chunky yarn or large needles, and you want scales, it may be better to use the larger scales (gauges, yarns, and needle sizes that work with the large scales are under investigation)
• Many standard patterns involve stockinette stitch, which you will find puts the scales on the "wrong" side (the side with the bumps)
• It should be possible to add scales to either garter stitch (as in the patches above) or stockinette stitch
• Stockinette stitch tends to be narrower and longer than garter stitch, so the knit patch described above, with purling back across normal rows, would come out slightly narrower and longer
• This will need to be taken into account in how the appearance of your scaled fabric will come out
• If knitting in the round, and you put a scale on the last stitch of a needle, be careful that it stays the right way up when you move onto your next needle

If you try anything out and are particularly pleased, feel free to post images to CraftyMutt's Facebook, or e-mail them to me (at sfarfort@yahoo.co.uk) because I'd love to feature more of other people's work; it's easier to believe that you can learn something if you see what people other than the designer have done with it!

Notes on Knitted Scale Mail Itself

In addition to the information on working with scales in your knitted work, there are some important things you should note on your finished scale mail item;

• Aluminium scales, while light weight and relatively soft, can be dangerous in the right situation
• I've done lots of tests, and in general you shouldn't have any problems with these bits of metal on your arms or round your neck, but always remember that some scales can have sharp bits that weren't caught by the manufacturer  which can cut the skin; always check as you knit every scale you add feels smooth and free of sharp edges or splintered bits of metal at corners
• You can file off any sharp or splintered bits you find to smooth them out - this may cause some damage to the finish, but it's better than cutting yourself repeatedly on it
• I can not take responsibility for animals or children that wear any item you have made using this method
• Although I personally would guess that a hamster would be happy enough to pose in a scale mail coat of armour for a few photos or to impress your house mates,  there is a whole lot of not good that can happen if any pet or child chews or pulls the scales off and tries to eat one, or as above there is always a danger of scratches and cuts - use your common sense and definitely do not leave animals or children unattended with knitted scale mail!
• Aluminium scales are moderately waterproof, but shouldn't be left wet if possible
• Aluminium does not rust in water, however it's still best to keep it dry if possible
• This is also why it's recommended not to block any pieces of scaled knitting
• It is safe to wear items made using aluminium scales in the rain, particularly the anodised ones, although when possible it's best to remove as much moisture as possible with a cloth, and leave it somewhere warm and dry after wearing for it to finish drying off
• Non-anodised (the plain silver coloured) aluminium scales may slowly build up with aluminium oxide, and become more dull - this oxide layer is not dangerous, but if you want should wipe off each individual scale with enough time to devote to each one individually!

Buying Scales

Obviously if you want to knit with scales you need some scales! This is a developing page, so please get in touch if you know another good seller of scales so I can make an even better list!

Previously I was able to provide ready-to-go kits, but I've put these on hold indefinitely as yarn has become more difficult to acquire and dispatch times were in excess of 2 weeks.

Anodised Aluminium Small Scale comes in a variety of colours from a few different sites, and I find them perfect for knitting on needles up to 4mm, and only a little fiddly on 5mm needles.

These scales will (on knitting) take about 100 to cover approx. a 3" by 4" area in the given gauge, so try and estimate the surface you need and make sure you buy enough for your project. Having a few left over just means you can use them to decorate something else!
Scales in this size are now also available in black and transparent plastic at TheRingLord, which are lighter and smoother and generally knit easier into the material.

People Who Sell Small Anodised Aluminium Scales

(please be aware of your local customs charges if you buy from abroad)

TheRingLord.com (based in Canada)

Best use: Buying loads of scales (minimum order cost requires at least three packets of 100 aluminium scales each to be ordered)

RingLord Tips: For international buyers, take advantage of postage weight bands if you can, it's frustrating to realise you paid twice as much postage just because you bought one packet over the weight limit. They also supply pretty much everything else you could need for anything chain-mail related.

This is where I get my scales because they are the cheapest, even though I'm in the UK and postage is quite high, it works out cheapest by far when buying the higher hundreds or thousands at once!

BeadsDirect.co.uk (based in UK)

No longer appears to sell scales

Beadsisters (based in UK)
Best use: Buying small quantities of scales quickly in UK
Beadsisters Tips: This is more aimed at selling scales for jewellery so they provide small quantities and let you get hold of your scales quickly. The price for the 100 scale packets is a little higher than you might pay if you buy from TheRingLord with international postage, but you'll get them a lot faster! They carry a basic range of colours of the small aluminium scales and being jewellery based they have a huge range of other beads, chains, and fixtures, such as you might want for finishing a scale necklace.

TheQueenRing.com (based in the Netherlands)
Best use: Buying scales in Europe
TheQueenRing Tips: Although prices are higher if you are bulk buying, this is certainly a good choice for small project orders anywhere in the area of Europe for speedier postage and decent prices. Make sure you double check what size scales you are buying, as the small and large ones are all mixed together in the shop.

BlueBuddhaBoutique.com (based in America)

Best use: Buying single scales for very small projects, with far greater (but watch out - also far more expensive) colour choice

BlueBuddah Tips: The 100 packs may be far more expensive (nearly ten times) than those at theringlord.com, however they have a wider colour range, so if you're looking for some really special scales this should be your first stop, and they have a lot of other jewellery supplies

If you're just getting started and don't know what to pick, I'd personally go for 300-600 scales from TheRingLord.com in one or two colours you like and try out a couple of gloves or similar items, but if you just want to try out the technique before you invest in enough scales to knit a whole item (or you want to try the technique asap!) you might want to stick with a few tens of scales from your nearest provider.

On a final note I'd love to see what people do with this, scales and knitting are really simple to put together so have a go, and if you could send me a picture of your results I'd love to feature it on the blog!